Each Culinary Artist Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.